In winter, northern Thailand wakes to a cloak of fog. Cool mountain air flushes down the mountains through dry, golden valleys. Straw hats bob through the fields as men, women and children stoop to the earth. It’s rice harvest season, but it’s not as it used to be. These days, you will find more hired Burmese laborers, and fewer Thais working the fields. More lands with mini-mansions, and fewer producing food. More mechanical plows, and fewer animals. More.